This place astounded me! This is certainly not the Holiday Inn. I've stayed in another "authentic" courtyard hotel but this was a different level of "authentic" altogether. We had one of the Concubine rooms - it was so dimly lit I could barely make out the contents of my suitcase, the bed was hard and the furnishings dark and heavy - but I loved it. You must do this for one night at least.
Perhaps it was the off-season because we seemed to be the only people there. The famous bomb shelter looked like it had been abandoned. Late at night we enjoyed a cocktail in the candle-lit courtyard, and breakfast the next morning was also served there. The staff were lovely, very attentive, and couldn't do enough for us.
The West Concubine room featured a huge canopied bed draped with gauzy gold curtains. As the bed took up most of the room you couldn't do much else but spend the time in bed; though there was a great selection of old books and travel guides just in case.
The stone-lined bathroom was atmospheric but didn't have enough flat surface to put two people's toilet bags and the shower leaked and flooded the floor - something that also happened at the Red Capital Ranch where the bathrooms are similar. It didn't really inconvenience us, just a quirk.
Outside in the street there's very good food available from the local shops and street vendors - it's extremely cheap and very tasty - also a convenience-type store selling bottled water if you need more. Don't worry about not speaking Mandarin, you can get by pretty well using sign language and smiles.
The hotel was nearly empty - almost musty inside - and is not for travellers who want convenience and over-soft comfort. But for a great and memorable Beijing experience you couldn't get much better than this.









