I was leary about going to Torres del Paine in the winter because I could find very little information before I left but I'm so glad I went anyway!
I flew into Punta Arenas and rented a car to drive myself there. It took me about 4.5 hours but the roads were great. It's a nicely paved highway from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales then a great dirt/gravel road starting just outside Puerto Natales. I was alone but it was an easy drive and the scenery gave me a great sense of the place and its stark grandness.
I spent about a week at the Hosteria Lago Grey which I loved. The place was perhaps 1/4 occupied so I had a nice room with a great view (room 701). I could lie in bed and see the mountains and look across the lake to the glacier. The staff and food were great.
I took the boat across the lake to see Glacier Grey on their first trip of the season (when I first arrived the boat wasn't running yet). Cold but beautiful.
I did some hiking around the park (no more than a few hours at a time, no major trekking) which was just amazing. I also drove all over the place and, in winter, there were virtually no other people or cars anywhere. I had the whole place to myself so could go as slow as I wanted, stop in the middle of the road, do whatever. It was fantastic!
I was even pleasantly surprised by the weather. It was cold now and then but not nearly as cold as I expected. It was often windy but not always. One day it was blowing at least hurricane strength but with 6 days there I had plenty of gorgous sunny days too.
The scenery can't be beat! The mountains are truly amazing while the lower parts of the park are easily accessible (no snow on the ground) and gorgeous in all shades of brown and gold before the spring greenery comes.
I saw guanacos galore, condors, hawks, foxes (even a family of 4 foxes who live near the hotel!), skunks and even flamingoes!
This was the trip of a lifetime and worth every penny I spent to get there (all the way from Hawaii).
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